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The American Victory Tour
LOCATION:
Island Pond, VT. |
MESSAGE:
16 July, 2008
After leaving Mike, I headed up Route 3. The road was mostly flat with paved shoulders. It was easy walking and I made good time.
It was an 8-mile walk to the Stratford-Maidstone Bridge. The bridge is a steel truss structure that has been standing for more than 125 years. There I crossed the Connecticut River into Vermont.
On the Vermont side, Highway 102 had been recently paved and was an even better walk than Route 3, although there were a few more hills.
I expected to find a riverside campsite about 4 miles up the road. When I asked locals about it, they only laughed and said it was inaccessible from the highway. They looked at the canoe I was pulling and laughed some more. I wondered if they were deranged or just suffered from sniffing too much road salt in the wintertime.
I continued walking while looking for a place to camp. It was late afternoon when I found a small clearing just off the highway. It was down a short driveway and separated from the road by a heavy screen of trees. A cabin sat in the trees but it showed no sign of having been visited in a very long time.
The next morning I reached Bloomfield, VT, and the intersection with Highway 105. I had a hot breakfast at a corner road stop and then asked the man behind the counter if there was any camping or motels up on Highway 105. He began laughing.
The way these people seemed to find so much humor in other folk’s problems, I began to wonder if there was a bit of inbreeding in this part of the world. So far, I was less than ecstatic about my visit to Vermont.
I turned left on Highway 105 and headed WNW. The road began climbing as I headed into the Green Mountains, the second mountain chain I had to cross this season.
About 4 miles out of Bloomfield, I was walking by a house that was close to the road. A lady came out and I asked her about camping in the area. She offered me a spot in her yard.
Donna Lee and Wade Jameson reaffirmed my faith in my fellow Americans. Besides a campsite, I was treated to a fine dinner of barbequed ribs. Wade is a finish carpenter and is completely remodeling his home.
The next morning, it was raining when I pulled out. As I have learned to expect, “Another day, another soaking.”
It was a 14-mile hike to Island Pond. I got a room in a rather overpriced motel with a great location. I was looking forward to a restaurant meal but all the restaurants were either closed or out of business. I bought a sandwich at a local deli and ate it while sitting at a picnic table overlooking the pond.
I had walked the canoe 35 miles uphill since leaving Groveton. Another 10 miles of climbing and then its down hill to Newport.
2009-03-04 19:51:36 est |
LOCATION:
Groveton, NH |
MESSAGE:
13 July, 2008,
The tiny village of Stark, NH, is noted for several things. It was named for General John Stark. He was a veteran of Roger’s Rangers during the French and Indian War and one of our best generals during the Revolutionary War. He was key to the rebels’ success at Bunker Hill. He was also the “Hero of the Battle of Bennington.”
At Bennington, he prepared his troops for battle by proclaiming, “These are your enemies, the Redcoats and the Tories. Today, they are ours or tonight Molly Stark sleeps a widow.”
Unable to attend a reunion for veterans of the battle, the 81-year-old Stark sent a letter that closed with the words, “Live Free or Die! There are far worse evils than death.”
“Live Free or Die!” is now the state motto of New Hampshire.
Another of the village of Stark’s attractions is the Devil’s Slide, a steep cliff rising north of the village and a popular nesting site for peregrine falcons.
During WWII, a Civilian Conservation Corps camp in Stark was converted to house 250 German POWs. Their treatment by the civilian population was so compassionate it became the subject of a book, Stark Decency. Many of the local residents and prisoners formed lifelong friendships, and a number of the Germans chose to remain in America after the war.
One former prisoner at a reunion claimed that the time he spent at Stark was the best year of his life.
The Stark Village Square, containing the church, townhall and covered bridge, lays claim to being one of the most photographed spots in New Hampshire.
Stark is also home to an annual old-time fiddlers contest. Hundreds of musicians converge on a nearby field every year to display their talents.
Finally, there is my favorite attraction. I arrived at Stark late in the afternoon. I was soaking wet, filthy, muddy and exhausted. After beaching the boat, I met two ladies and asked them about the possibility of lodging. They directed me to the Stark Inn across the bridge.
The inn is a beautiful old building in immaculate condition. It is both stately and elegant. In my far-less-than-immaculate condition, I was almost certain the owners would turn the dogs loose on me if I set foot on the property.
Not only was I not turned away, I was given the run of the property. The room rate is one of the lowest I have ever paid and the owner was the epitome of hospitality.
I tackled the Amonoosuc River again the following morning. It was more blow downs and shallow rapids. At several places, I was forced to get out of the boat. I used an oar to maintain balance on the slick surface of the wet rocks in the rushing water.
Once I found a spot with reasonably firm footing, I pulled the boat to myself using a line fastened to the bow. Some of the gravel bars were so extensive that I had to repeat the process multiple times.
When I became hung up on large boulders, the water was often too deep and too fast for me to climb back in the boat after I got it free. In those situations, I placed most of my weight across the boat and drifted in the current to a spot more suitable for recovering my seat.
About a quarter of a mile above Red Dam, I found a place to pull out. I put the boat on wheels and walked it the last mile into Groveton, NH.
Then I walked another half-mile past the town and uphill, naturally, to the Down Home Motel.
At the motel, I met Mike, another canoeist and an outdoor photographer. Mike was also doing the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, but he was going in the opposite direction.
Mike and I struck up an instant friendship. We spent a couple of days re-supplying, taking care of equipment and just taking a break at Groveton.
We also swapped war stories and advice on what was ahead.
I couldn’t find my toiletries bag. I phoned the Stark Inn to ask if I had left it on the bank when I got underway. The owner of the Inn delivered the bag to my motel the next day.
What a very nice lady!
Groveton is a town that is going through hard times. The Wausau Paper Company mill recently closed. It was the town’s largest private employer and hundreds of residents lost their jobs.
The town has a tired look about it. There was a pretty good outfitter in town. I purchased a Jet Boil camp stove. It was a model of efficiency. I could bring a pint of water to a boil in just a couple of minutes. It packed down to the size of a Nalgene bottle and it even had a French press for making coffee.
Mike and I walked down to the crossroads where we parted company. He headed for Maine and I headed for Vermont.
My recent experiences on the Amonoosuc River and my conversation with Mike convinced me not to tackle the Connecticut River. I decided to walk to Newport, Vermont. I could make better time. It is only 67 miles from Groveton.
2009-02-27 10:05:13 est |
LOCATION:
Stark, NH |
MESSAGE:
9 July, 2008
At the launch site in Errol, I met a group of kayakers going out for a day trip. I could hear the guide telling them what to expect.
I listened carefully hoping to scoop up any useful crumbs of knowledge that I could. What I learned was that there was whitewater ahead, a good bit of it.
The kayakers were very friendly and I followed them down the Androscoggin River. I tried to watch the line they took through the rapids and then take the same line myself.
It was here that I really grew to appreciate the genius of Verlan Kruger. Boat design is a series of compromises. You must give up something in order to get something else. Good tracking ability and speed will reduce maneuverability.
The Kruger canoe is fast, stable and tracks well. It is a long boat with excellent cargo capacity. These qualities, which make it such a grand expedition canoe, make it hard to handle in whitewater, where a shorter waterline and lots of rocker are the ideal.
Rather than build a less able expedition canoe, Kruger built an incredibly strong and stable canoe.
I avoided the rocks that I could. The ones I couldn’t, I often slammed into with enough force to rattle windowpanes in the neighborhood. Occasionally, I was caught broadside to the current. I never felt as if the boat was going to upset and the only damage to the canoe was a bit of lost paint and some gel coat.
It took about half an hour after passing through the rough water for my bones to stop vibrating like a tuning fork.
About 6 miles downstream, my kayaker buddies invited me to join them for lunch, but I demurred and continued on alone.
I planned to pull out at one of the primitive campsites -- Moose Crossing or Osprey -- but a park ranger told me they were reserved.
From there to the Pontook Reservoir it was all private land. I decided to try for the campground at Cedar Pond.
The section of river was mostly flat and sluggish with a few stretches of Class I rapids. In some places I had to get out and drag the boat across gravel bars.
I paddled 17 mi. from Errol to Pontook Dam. Then I put the boat on wheels and started walking. The first two miles followed the river. After an initial climb up a fairly steep hill for about a quarter of a mile, it was mostly flat.
Then I turned east onto Highway 110A toward Groveton, NH. The pavement started to climb and it kept climbing for the next three miles.
It was a steep downhill the last few hundred yards into the campground and I struggled to keep the canoe from running away with me.
I asked for a campsite and the lady in the office pointed up the side of the mountain. I knew that I could not pull the canoe up that hill. There were a couple of cabins just across the road and I rented one of them.
The price was a budget-buster but I was not in any condition to go any farther.
In the Morning, I pulled the canoe another mile downhill into West Milan and the Upper Ammonoosuc River. On the Ammonoosuc, I began to see more trash. I had grown accustomed to the pristine conditions of the Maine waterways and the amount of litter while minimal by the standards of much of the country was jarring to me.
Except for the litter, it was a lovely and quiet stream. Often shaded by large trees it passed through a narrow valley of farmland bordered by steep granite mountains. Deep forests only broken by jagged outcroppings covered the peaks.
The Ammonoosuc had a fairly quick current. Unfortunately, it was so narrow and winding that the flow became more of a hindrance than help. Those welcome shade trees also meant that the channel was often blocked by fallen limbs or even entire trees. I kept slamming into banks on oxbows and hanging up on deadfalls.
I found myself outside the boat as much as I was in it, dragging the canoe across shallows or lifting it over deadfalls.
One tree completely blocked the channel. The massive trunk was a barrier about four feet high with a tangle of roots that prevented access to the southern bank. On the northern side vertical clay walls rose about ten feet above the water.
The trunk ended about eight feet short of the north bank and a thick branch lay across the rest of the channel about to a height of about six inches above the water.
Just beyond that branch another one made a bridge with eight inches of clearance under it.
I climbed out of the canoe into chest-high water. The tree funneled the current flow under the branches and it rushed through the opening with a fair amount of force. It took a lot of effort to maintain my position and footing.
I Lifted the bow of the fully loaded canoe up on to the first branch and then crossed under the branch to pull the boat from the other side.
When the bow reached the next branch, I climbed up on the bow to force it under the branch. With brute force, I was able to slide the bow of the boat under one limb of the tree while I was dragging the middle and stern of the boat across the top of the other.
As the stern dropped off the first branch the full buoyancy of the canoe pressed it tightly up against the second. I then climbed on the stern of the boat to force it down and slip it free of the second branch.
I reach Stark late that afternoon. It took me nearly eight hours to paddle a little more than ten miles with a following current.
11 portages- 59 mi.
2009-02-25 22:36:22 est |
LOCATION:
Errol, NH |
MESSAGE:
7 July, 2008,
After South Arm Camp, I spent a night at a remote campsite and then headed to the takeout at Middle Dam and the Rapid River portage.
As I pulled out of the water, I saw two men sitting in a pickup truck. There was a Disabled Veteran plate on the truck.
I approached to get information about the portage and met Aldro French, a fellow Viet Nam Vet. He not only gave me directions but invited me to his house about one third of the way up the portage. With the invitation came a lift to his house and an offer of lunch. It was a deal that was too good to resist.
Aldro is a licensed Maine fishing guide. He lives in a house that was made famous by Louise Dickenson Rich, in her book “We Took to the Woods.”
Mrs. Rich and her family moved to the Rangely Lakes area in the twenties. It was life far off the grid and it still is. Aldro uses little electricity and what he does he has to produce himself.
He had to drive to the dam to get any cell phone reception and he goes to town to get internet access. He has no television.
Despite all that he lacks, or perhaps because of it, Aldro is one of the most contented men that I have ever met. He is constantly serenaded by the sound of the rushing waters of the Rapid River. His view is of the ever-changing Maine woods and the falls and rapids of the river. He is entertained by the constant flow of wildlife.
Last year, Aldro and nine of his friends and neighbors hosted ten disabled veterans for four days of fly-fishing as part of Project Healing Waters Fly Fishing (PHWFF). Aldro told me it was one of the most rewarding things he has ever done.
He was expecting a larger group of veterans about a week after my visit.
After lunch on the back porch, overlooking the Rapid River, we loaded the canoe on a small trailer and hooked it behind an ATV to complete the portage.
Blake Palmer drove the four-wheeler and his son Jonathan and I rode on the luggage rack. The trail was rough and in places so steep that I had to get out and push to keep the ATV moving. At other places, I had to push it through deep mud. We had to clear a blown down tree at one spot.
Young Jonathan had caught a huge trout the day before and both he and his dad were very proud. I am expecting to see Jon with his own show on the Outdoor Channel or at least in a cover photo of “Field and Stream.”
I launched at Sunday Cove on Lake Umbagog. I paddled across the lake to the outlet at the Androscoggin River. I was now in New Hampshire.
I reached Errol, NH, in early evening and checked into the Errol Motel. There was one restaurant that closed just as I arrived. Next door to the restaurant was a convenience store, grill, and pizzeria. When I walked in they were cleaning the kitchen. I settled for a cold sandwich out of the refrigerator and a pint of butter almond ice cream and took both back to the hotel with me.
10 portages- 52 miles
2009-02-11 12:04:24 est |
LOCATION:
Lake Welokennebacook, ME |
MESSAGE:
6 July, 2008
You may not be able to find Lake Welokennebacook or Lake Mollychunkamunk on any map. That is because someone changed their names to Lower and Upper Lake Richardson. Why anyone would give up names like Mollychunkamunk and Welokennebacook for Upper and Lower Richardson is beyond me.
Lake Moolychunkamunk lies just a short portage from Mooselookmeguntic. Don’t these names just roll off the tongue? From the portage it was a four-mile paddle to Metellak Island where I stayed in one of several campsites run by South Arm Campgrounds.
In order to pay last night’s camping fee and to arrange sites for the rest of the weekend, I had to paddle past my next portage entrance and go to the main South Arm Campground.
I spent either the third or the fourth of July, depending on which calendar you go by -- the one on my wristwatch or the one on your wall -- at South Arm Campground.
9 Portages - - 43. 7 mi
2009-02-07 12:23:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Black Point, ME |
MESSAGE:
Sometime in July, 2008
I paddled to the southern end of Mooselookmeguntic Lake and shared a campsite. It took me a week to lea...
2008-09-15 18:10:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Griffin Island, ME |
MESSAGE:
2 July, 2008
From Rangely State Park, it was 3 miles to Oquossoc Cove. Then I had an easy 1˝ mile portage to Haine Landing and...
2008-09-15 18:06:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Rangely State Park, ME |
MESSAGE:
1 July, 2008
Rangely had a very prosperous and upscale feel about it.
The town struck me as a place where the ...
2008-09-15 17:58:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Rangely, ME |
MESSAGE:
27 June, 2008
After two nights in Stratton, I began my longest portage yet; 16 miles to Rangely, mostly uphill.
...
2008-09-15 17:52:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Stratton, ME |
MESSAGE:
22 June, 2008
After launching on Lake Flagstaff, I camped on a small island that contained ruins of the village of Flagstaff.
<...
2008-09-05 16:54:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Flagstaff Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
21 June, 2008
Continuing rain kept the Dead River running high and hard. I began running low on supplies. Weather forecasts called for...
2008-09-05 16:50:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Great Falls, Dead River, ME |
MESSAGE:
18 June, 2008
The continuing heavy rains taught me a new lesson. Mountain rivers are not predictable. Spencer Stream was suppo...
2008-09-05 16:42:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer Stream Portage, ME |
MESSAGE:
17 June, 2008
What the portage lacked in distance, it made up for in difficulty. Heavy rains over the past week turned dirt ro...
2008-09-05 16:38:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer Dam, ME |
MESSAGE:
16 June, 2008
Camped on a beach at the top of Spencer Dam. According to the Northern Forest Canoe Trail map, the da...
2008-09-05 16:35:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Fish Pond, ME |
MESSAGE:
14 June, 2008
Squandered enough time. I think I finally got my “tough” back. I realized I was beginning to whine when talking to mysel...
2008-09-01 20:25:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Fish Pond, ME |
MESSAGE:
13 June 2008,
From Spencer POW Camp, it was another two-mile walk to Fish Pond and access to Spencer Lake. A single gentleman owns mos...
2008-09-01 20:22:25 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer POW Camp, ME |
MESSAGE:
11 June, 2008
Another 5 or 6 miles up the Moose River took me to Spencer Rips and my next takeout. I made camp on the ruins of...
2008-09-01 20:19:12 est |
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LOCATION:
Spencer Rips, ME |
MESSAGE:
9 June, 2008
The morning after I reached Attean Falls, I met another paddler. He was also following the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, b...
2008-09-01 20:11:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Attean Falls, ME |
MESSAGE:
June 8, 2008
From Jackman, I paddled down Big Wood Pond to Attean Pond and into another leg of the Moose River.
The win...
2008-09-01 20:08:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Jackman, ME |
MESSAGE:
7 June, 2008
On a clear still morning, I left Long Pond Camp and paddled to the head of the lake. I found the mouth of the ...
2008-09-01 20:04:25 est |
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LOCATION:
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MESSAGE:
...
2008-07-31 20:05:53 est |
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LOCATION:
27 May, Long Pond, ME |
MESSAGE:
27 May, 2008
I decided to take the canoe straight down the center of the track. I could make better time and not worry about tipping....
2008-07-31 19:52:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Jackman, ME |
MESSAGE:
30 May, 2008
I spent three days as the guest of Tim and Debbie at Long Pond Camp.
It was another cozy cottage...
2008-07-31 12:31:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Little Brassua Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 26, 2008
In the morning it was raining, cold and windy. I paddled back downstream and back on to the lake to a spot wh...
2008-07-19 14:15:19 est |
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LOCATION:
Moose River, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 25, 2008
The warm weather arrived on Sunday. I crossed Brassua Lake, then Little Brassua and entered the next leg of t...
2008-07-19 14:13:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Brassua Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 24, 2008
Weather forecasters are men and women with expensive haircuts and more than the standard issue of teeth. Thei...
2008-07-19 14:13:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Rockwood, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 21, 2008
This trip is turning into a slow crawl. Planned on leaving on the 20th but the weather was still ba...
2008-07-07 12:59:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Rockwood, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 19, 2008
Have reached the exit of Moosehead Lake. Tomorrow morning, I will tackle the Moose River, my first upstream run.
...
2008-07-07 12:57:32 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 17, 2008
I woke up freezing. A light wind blew out of the west and it was cold.
There were only ripples ...
2008-07-07 12:54:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 16,2008
Winter has returned. The skies cleared and a slight drop in the winds lured me out on the lake. About halfway across, a li...
2008-07-07 12:52:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
15 May, 2008
The weather that I laid up for yesterday, arrived today. The South wind stiffened and unfriendly clouds darkened the earl...
2008-07-07 12:50:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Welokennebacook, ME |
MESSAGE:
6 July, Lake Welokennebacook, ME
You may not be able to find Lake Welokennebacook or Lake Mollychunkamunk on any map. That is because s...
2008-07-06 12:20:37 est |
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LOCATION:
6 July, Lake Welokennebacook, ME |
MESSAGE:
You may not be able to find Lake Welokennebacook or Lake Mollychunkamunk on any map. That is because someone changed their names to Lower and ...
2008-07-06 10:38:17 est |
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LOCATION:
Moosehead Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 14, 2008
Spent my first night out on my own.
Broke down my camp yesterday and evicted all the six an...
2008-06-07 18:33:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesuncook Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 10, 2008
Another cold front. I haven’t even gotten underway and I am already experiencing equipment problems.
...
2008-06-07 18:28:11 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesuncook Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 7, 2008
Cold front came through. God always knows where to find me.
Will leave on Monday. Mr. Reeves...
2008-06-07 18:26:04 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Chesuncook, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 4, 2008
I have gone from late spring to mid-winter. Nighttime temperatures are dropping into the 20's.
I brought just enough...
2008-06-05 12:56:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesuncook Lake, ME |
MESSAGE:
May 1, 2008
Cathy and I finally got underway. When we arrived in Maine, and were heading north to Fort Kent, we were still considering ...
2008-06-05 12:53:28 est |
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LOCATION:
T |
MESSAGE:
As I sit here in Tennessee, watching weather reports and repacking my gear for the fifty-third time, I feel the self-doubt creeping over me.
2008-04-28 17:15:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Tennessee |
MESSAGE:
I had planned to launch a few days after Easter. Unfortunately, Maine has gone through one of its coldest winters on record. Unless I wanted to launch...
2008-03-29 12:10:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Eastport, ME |
MESSAGE:
Before starting out in the summer of ’06, I had to upgrade some equipment.
My U.S. Marine Corps tent was pretty badly worn. I replac...
2008-03-25 11:15:31 est |
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LOCATION:
plymouth, Mass |
MESSAGE:
To all of you who have been following my journey, forgive me for the long absence from the keyboard. I have no excuse to offer except procrastination...
2008-03-10 16:12:11 est |
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LOCATION:
Beach Haven, NJ, 6/1/05 |
MESSAGE:
The tide was out when I broke camp. About a hundred
yards of mud flats separated me from the water.
I had to pull all the gear o...
2005-06-19 18:41:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Brigantine, NJ, 5/31/05 |
MESSAGE:
From Trumps, I bounced across the choppy Absecon inlet
to the town of Brigantine and loaded up with supplies.
I had rowed fifteen miles ...
2005-06-19 18:40:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Atlantic City, NJ, 5/30/05 |
MESSAGE:
It is Memorial Day. I have been camping on landfills,
under bridges and on piles of dredge spoil. I am
ready for a hotel.
...
2005-06-19 18:38:42 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape May Courthouse, NJ, 5/27/05 |
MESSAGE:
Progress has been slow and campsites scarce. I am
sleeping in a bed again. I pulled into the Avalon
Point Marina. Once again, I was trea...
2005-06-19 18:37:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape May, NJ, 5/23/05 |
MESSAGE:
Hutch's Marina allowed me to keep my canoe on their
property during my stay in Cape May. The young lady at
the desk ran herself ragged t...
2005-06-19 18:35:20 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape May, NJ, May 22, 2005 |
MESSAGE:
I am finally warm and dry in a motel room.
Yesterday at Moores Beach, the storm had continued through the day.
A ranger...
2005-06-19 18:31:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Moores Beach, NJ, 5/20/05 |
MESSAGE:
 As I write this, I am lying in my tent just 15 miles north of the Cape May Canal. From the start of this year, I have been seeing a lot of simila...
2005-06-03 20:48:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Salem, NJ, 5/15/05 |
MESSAGE:
After leaving Essington, I crossed the Delaware and made a short hop to Bridgeton, NJ. The people at Sub Sea Inc. let me keep my boat there. They even...
2005-06-03 20:44:53 est |
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LOCATION:
Essington, PA, 5/11/05 |
MESSAGE:
It took me two days to reach Essington from Delaware City. At the West End Boat Club I was treated like visiting royalty.
Â
The club wa...
2005-06-03 20:42:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Delaware City, DE, 5/8/05 |
MESSAGE:
I returned to the canoe early Sunday morning. The tide was in full flood and running hard. Rich Ostlander gave me his card and suggested I put in at t...
2005-06-03 20:40:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesapeake City, MD, 5/6/05 |
MESSAGE:
After a long night of shivering in the tent, I was slow getting started. A cold north wind was blowing a wicked chop down the Elk River. Even with a f...
2005-06-03 20:38:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Chesterton, MD 5/1/05 |
MESSAGE:
Cathy dropped me off at the Great Oak Landing & Lodge. A new season begins.
 Â
The Oak Landing Marina is located near Chesterton, Mary...
2005-05-15 16:13:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Sassafras River, MD 5/3/05 |
MESSAGE:
The next day was clear and crisp. There was chilly wind and a light chop. As I came to the Sassafras River, a heavy cloud cover came in and it starte...
2005-05-15 16:07:53 est |
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LOCATION:
Elk Neck State Park, MD 5/5/05 |
MESSAGE:
The sun and wind rose together. I crossed the Sassafras and continued up past Turkey Point. Turkey Point marks the confluence of the Susquehanna and E...
2005-05-15 16:05:13 est |
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LOCATION:
In Memoriam |
MESSAGE:
After a decade-and-a-half-long battle, the world’s greatest canoeist succumbed to cancer. I had the opportunity to meet with Verlen once.
2005-04-28 21:00:27 est |
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LOCATION:
An Apology |
MESSAGE:
I would like to apologize to my readers for the long delay in the journal updates. I became rather distracted in the off-season. Cathy and I became th...
2005-04-28 20:55:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Philadelphia, PA July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The next day, Cathy and I pulled the boat and headed back to Tennessee. I will spend the winter repairing my back. I will also modify the canoe and fr...
2005-04-28 20:53:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Philadelphia, PA July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Having lost my weather window because of the spill, I rowed into Baltimore. I put the boat up at a marina in the inner harbor and checked into a motel...
2005-04-28 20:51:22 est |
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LOCATION:
Baltimore, MD July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I had talked to a producer for HDTV who wanted to film me arriving in Philly. This created a logistical problem. The high definition cameras are few i...
2005-04-28 20:47:41 est |
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LOCATION:
Potomac River July, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I followed the north shore going downriver. This put me in Maryland, my 10th state. Finding campsites on the Maryland side was even harder than on the...
2005-04-28 19:42:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Washington D.C. June, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I arrived at the Capitol with no fanfare. It was rather anticlimactic after the long slog upriver. I notified the local press and media of my arrival ...
2005-04-28 19:41:19 est |
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LOCATION:
Potomac River, June, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
From Mathews County, I continued up the Chesapeake. Years ago, I kept a sailboat on the bay. It seemed as if I could never find enough wind.
2005-04-28 19:39:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Mathews County, VA June,2004 |
MESSAGE:
It was not with great regret that I departed what had once been a long anticipated destination. I left early in the morning from Norfolk, one of the w...
2005-04-28 19:38:10 est |
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LOCATION:
Norfolk, VA< June, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
For years, when I worked on tugs and barges, the boats would arrive at Norfolk. There is a marina and hotel on the Portsmouth side of the Elizabeth Ri...
2005-04-28 19:35:55 est |
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LOCATION:
Great Dismal Swamp, June 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The Great Dismal Swamp lies on the Virginia/North Carolina border. After the area was surveyed by William Byrd, George Washington purchased 20,000 acr...
2005-04-28 19:34:14 est |
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LOCATION:
Elizabeth City, NC June, 20004 |
MESSAGE:
After crossing the Albemarle, I had returned to civilization and noise. I had been trying to replicate the experience on the Alligator River of perfec...
2005-04-27 14:09:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Albemarle Sound, June 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The next day broke hot and clear with a bit of a breeze. I reached the Alligator River Highway Bridge. There was a Marina at the west end of the bridg...
2005-04-26 14:07:34 est |
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LOCATION:
Albemarle Sound, June 2004 |
MESSAGE:
This was a day I had not been looking forward to. I was crossing the sound. The sound had a reputation for being unkind to small boats.
...
2005-04-26 14:07:05 est |
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LOCATION:
Alligator River May, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
From the canal, I entered the Alligator River. The river ran east a short distance and then turned north where it widened to more than two miles acros...
2005-04-23 11:33:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Alligator-Pungo Canal May, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
The next morning, I passed several good and easily accessible campsites less than a mile from where I had spent the night.
My next cam...
2005-04-23 11:24:25 est |
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LOCATION:
Alligator-Pungo Canal May, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I made a late-in-the-day launch following many fond farewells from the kind people of Bel Haven and hugs and kisses from my bride. Lots of hugs and k...
2005-04-22 00:20:04 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC 22,May |
MESSAGE:
I once again found myself at the tender mercies of North Carolina hospitality. I made arrangements to keep my canoe at the boatyard in Bel Haven. I ha...
2005-04-22 00:16:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC 22,May |
MESSAGE:
I once again found myself at the tender mercies of North Carolina hospitality. I made arrangements to keep my canoe at the boatyard in Bel Haven. I ha...
2005-04-22 00:08:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Belhaven, NC, May 20, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners specialize in wooden boat repair...very fine w...
2004-09-01 17:05:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC, May 18, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
It took me four days to go from Oriental to Bel Haven. My stomach has straightened out but my lower back is giving me a lot of complaints.
2004-06-03 18:19:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Oriental, NC, May 14, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Crossed the Neuse River in a flat calm. I landed on a small beach behind the docks at The Oriental Harbor Marina. The people seem to just keep getting...
2004-06-03 18:05:51 est |
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LOCATION:
Neuse River, NC, May 13, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Best campsite yet. Much of the woods had been cleared for development, right down to the bare sand. Just enough trees left to pr...
2004-06-03 18:02:44 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven, NC 22,May |
MESSAGE:
Decided to take an extended layover in Bel Haven. Cathy is supposed to pick me later in the week and we will go to DC for Rolling Thunder, a Viet Nam...
2004-05-22 23:37:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Adam’s Creek, NC, May 12, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
My stomach kept me awake most of the night and I missed the last of the morning tide. I decided to make it another short day.
...
2004-05-20 16:19:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Mile 195, ICW, May 11, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I did another short day. I am tiring too easily. I must be in worse shape than I thought. If the rowing was tough, ma...
2004-05-20 16:18:47 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven |
MESSAGE:
Belhaven, NC
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners s...
2004-05-20 15:41:33 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven |
MESSAGE:
Belhaven, NC
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners s...
2004-05-20 15:39:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Bel Haven |
MESSAGE:
Belhaven, NC
Docked at the Belhaven Marina. It is a modest-sized boat yard that is impeccably maintained. The owners s...
2004-05-20 15:37:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Morehead City, North Carolina, May 10, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I rowed 16 miles today. I am still struggling. Pulled into Spooner’s Creek Marina and, although the people were very nice, the d...
2004-05-16 17:24:05 est |
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LOCATION:
Emerald Isle, North Carolina, May 9, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Because of sunburn, back pain and powerboats, I decided to take Sunday off.
When I arrived on this island, I was greeted by a sign that...
2004-05-16 17:22:36 est |
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LOCATION:
Bear Inlet, NC, May 8, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
I got underway early. I found myself engaged in a number of conversations with people on shore and in other boats. A light breez...
2004-05-11 08:01:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Camp LeJeune, NC, May 7, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
Departure Day. I got an early start and left at the crack of noon. As usual on departure day, my canoe was overloaded. &nbs...
2004-05-11 07:59:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Eastern Tennessee, May 5, 2004 |
MESSAGE:
A brand new canoe is sitting in my garage. It is sleek and sexy. Cathy painted red, white and blue bunting across the bow and she lettered ...
2004-05-05 08:38:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Lansing, MI |
MESSAGE:
After a brief visit with a couple of family members, I saw my brother Teddy, his wife Janice and my sister, Stephanie. I had hoped to see my sister, F...
2004-02-11 15:12:15 est |
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LOCATION:
USMC Ccamp Lejeune, NC |
MESSAGE:
We moved to Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base. Our site was just off the beach, behind a wall of sand dunes. I was interviewed by two sharp young marines...
2004-02-11 15:09:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Oak Island, NC |
MESSAGE:
I crossed the Little River Inlet into North Carolina, my eighth state. I was closing in on three thousand miles. It seemed I wasn’t going to reach tha...
2004-02-11 15:06:34 est |
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LOCATION:
Myrtle Beach, SC |
MESSAGE:
The ICW passed through a canal that connected the Waccamaw with the Little River. It ran along the west side of Myrtle Beach.
I left t...
2003-09-09 21:13:17 est |
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LOCATION:
Waccamaw River, SC. |
MESSAGE:
Our next move was to the Huntington Beach State Park. It was a large and beautiful park that was packed with amenities and things to do. There were sw...
2003-09-08 14:03:04 est |
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LOCATION:
Francis Marion National Forest, SC |
MESSAGE:
I rowed the length of Wadmalaw Sound to the Stono River. With fair winds and tides, I felt as if I were nearly airborne. The open waters of the sound ...
2003-09-07 15:09:41 est |
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LOCATION:
Charlesron, SC |
MESSAGE:
From Beaufort, we moved to a campsite near Charleston South Carolina. If our last campground was a model of attention to detail this gave the impressi...
2003-08-30 14:45:09 est |
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LOCATION:
Beaufort, SC |
MESSAGE:
We moved from Hilton Head to Beaufort, South Carolina. Beaufort is a small waterfront city. Like many of the towns we have visited along the southeast...
2003-08-27 11:55:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Hilton Head, SC |
MESSAGE:
Cathy next moved us to a very upscale campground on Hilton Head Island. From Savannah, the ICW ran alongside the western shore of Dafuskie Island and ...
2003-08-23 13:08:01 est |
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LOCATION:
Savannah, GA |
MESSAGE:
Fort Stewart was our base while in the Savannah area. Fort Stewart is the home of the Third Infantry Division. The Third has been deployed to Iraq. Se...
2003-08-13 15:20:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Brunswick, Ga |
MESSAGE:
We crossed into Georgia in time for Independence Day. Our campsite was just outside Brunswick, Georgia, near Jekyll Island. Also located nearby, was a...
2003-08-07 14:36:03 est |
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LOCATION:
Jekyll Island, FL |
MESSAGE:
I had a long jump from Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island to Jekyll Island and I planned on spending at least one night camping out.
...
2003-08-07 14:33:50 est |
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LOCATION:
Mayport, FL |
MESSAGE:
I was coming to the end of my long odyssey around the state of Florida. We moved camp to the Mayport Naval Station near Jacksonville.
...
2003-08-07 14:27:00 est |
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LOCATION:
St. Augustine, FL |
MESSAGE:
It had been a particularly pleasant day of rowing. The sun had been a bit softer and the seas smoother; the traffic almost non-existent. I ...
2003-08-07 14:24:45 est |
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LOCATION:
daytona, Fl |
MESSAGE:
The ICW left the Indian River at Titusville and crossed through the Haulover Canal into the Mosquito Lagoon. In the Haulover Canal, I had my closest l...
2003-08-07 14:21:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Daytona, FL |
MESSAGE:
By morning, my right shin had mostly stopped leaking blood. I covered the wound with a waterproof bandage and set out. My leg, which hadn’t hurt...
2003-08-07 14:18:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Daytona, FL |
MESSAGE:
The ICW left the Indian River at Titusville and crossed through the Haulover Canal into the Mosquito Lagoon. In the Haulover Canal, I had my closest l...
2003-07-26 12:57:10 est |
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LOCATION:
Daytona, FL |
MESSAGE:
By morning, my right shin had mostly stopped leaking blood. I covered the wound with a waterproof bandage and set out. My leg, which hadn’t hurt all n...
2003-07-26 12:55:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Patrick AFB |
MESSAGE:
I left the Indian River and entered the Banana River which ran alongside Patrick AFB. The Banana River is separated from the Indian by Merritt Island....
2003-07-26 12:52:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Patrick AFB |
MESSAGE:
Patrick AFB is located a few miles south of Cape Canaveral. That Sunday, a rocket with a Mars mission was scheduled to be launched. Cathy and I visite...
2003-07-26 12:50:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Patrick AFB, |
MESSAGE:
The relatively open water of Lake Worth gave me no problems and actually provided a bit of respite from the wakes of the power boats. I avoided the ma...
2003-07-26 12:47:56 est |
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LOCATION:
West Palm Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
While rowing along one day, I did some mathematics in my head. I was roughly 1500 miles from New York. With more than seventy days of rowing to go, ev...
2003-07-14 16:43:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Boca Raton, FL |
MESSAGE:
My vacation to DC cost me a week of rowing time. I decided to make up for it by breaking one of my own rules and rowing on a weekend. ...
2003-07-14 16:40:36 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-07-14 12:01:05 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-07-14 11:59:50 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft. Lauderdale, FL. |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
We took a break after reaching Key West. It was nearly time for Rolling Thunder, the Viet Nam Veterans’ Rally held ...
2003-06-25 16:04:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Key Largo, FL. |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
After more than a year of anticipating my arrival here, a year of fighting wind and sea, a year of searing heat and bitter col...
2003-06-25 16:02:28 est |
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LOCATION:
So. Miami, FL |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
If driving around Miami was an ordeal, rowing was anti-climatic. I never ran into the extremely heavy boat traffic I expected....
2003-06-11 12:56:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft. Lauderdale, FL |
MESSAGE:
May 2003
Cathy had found a campground on the New River. It was the Yacht Haven Campground and Marina. I was interviewed there by report...
2003-06-11 12:50:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft. Lauderdale, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
The charts showed three canals going from Lake Okeechobee to the Miami-Ft.
Lauderdale area. After talking to as many ...
2003-06-11 12:30:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Belle Glade, Fl |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
Cathy had found a campground on Lake Okeechobee. It was a county park located on Torry Island on the south shore of the lake...
2003-06-11 12:15:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Okeechobee, FL |
MESSAGE:
April, 2003
I continued up the river toward Lake Okeechobee. There was another lock at Ortona. This time I was allowed to lock through....
2003-05-30 12:34:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Labelle, FL |
MESSAGE:
April, 2003
At its mouth, the Calloosahatchie River was broad from one and a half to nearly two miles wide. There were a series of narr...
2003-05-30 12:32:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Cape Coral, FL |
MESSAGE:
April, 20003
We relaunched the canoe from a marina at the end of Tortuga Road. I came out of Jug Creek through Shell Pass and turned we...
2003-05-19 13:26:54 est |
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LOCATION:
Big Pine Island, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
I was nearly finished with the west coast of Florida. Cathy moved the camp to Big Pine Island at the southern end of Charlot...
2003-05-19 13:22:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Venice, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 2003
Our next campsite was at the Oscar Sherer State Park In Venice, FL. While Cathy moved the camp, I continued down ...
2003-05-18 12:01:17 est |
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LOCATION:
MacDill AFB, Tampa, FL |
MESSAGE:
April 1, 2003
MacDill AFB II
I put the boat in on the east end of the Cross Bayou. This put me at the northwestern
...
2003-05-07 13:51:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Tampa, FL |
MESSAGE:
The Tampa-St. Petersburg area is the largest metropolitan center I have arrived at so far. Tampa and St. Petersburg lie across Tampa B...
2003-05-07 13:45:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Tarpon Springs, FL |
MESSAGE:
ur next campsite was at Tarpon Springs. This town is America’s sponge fishing capital. The people of Greek descent who came here to harvest the vast s...
2003-04-26 14:21:47 est |
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LOCATION:
Hudson, FL |
MESSAGE:
Cathy moved the camp to the Winter Haven RV Park in Hudson, FL. Rather than find a new campground every night, we had decided that ...
2003-04-26 14:19:57 est |
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LOCATION:
Chassahowitzka, FL |
MESSAGE:
I continued on the canoe trail to the Chassahowitzka River. It was a peaceful and beautiful ride through salt marshes and tidal swamps. The co...
2003-04-26 14:15:54 est |
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LOCATION:
March 25, 2003 Chassahowitzka. FL |
MESSAGE:
Another day was spent winding down the “Nature Coast Canoe Trail”.
The wind had laid down; it was my best day yet for rowing. I turned into the...
2003-04-10 11:52:09 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-04-10 10:37:08 est |
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LOCATION:
March 24, 2003 Homosassa, FL |
MESSAGE:
Tom, the manager of the Encore park supplied me with a map of a canoe trail that would allow me to cover the distance from Crystal River to Chassahowi...
2003-04-10 10:35:18 est |
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LOCATION:
March 19, 2003 Crystal River, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning, I untied from the trees and began finding my way back through the labyrinth of waterways to the open Gulf. The wind had died and in t...
2003-04-10 10:32:45 est |
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LOCATION:
March 18, 2003 Crystal River, Fl |
MESSAGE:
After about an hour of slogging though the mud, I finally broke free into the Gulf of Mexico. The boat felt light and fast as I rowed through light w...
2003-04-09 10:39:41 est |
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LOCATION:
March 17, 2003 Cedar Key, Fl |
MESSAGE:
We had finally returned to Cedar Key. It was time to resume the journey.
I was interviewed by Maureen Landress for the "Cedar Key Ne...
2003-04-05 10:42:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Keaton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
Our last stop before Cedar Key was the Old Pavilion RV Park in Keaton Beach. Spiridon Aberjeris and his mother, Lynn, were my most gracious hosts. Thi...
2003-04-05 10:26:20 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
During these times of conflict, I am reminded of the word of a patriot who lived two centuries ago.
He was a citizen of England and was...
2003-04-05 10:03:42 est |
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LOCATION:
Panama City, Fl. |
MESSAGE:
March 2003
Finally, it was time to go to Panama City to pick up my new FrontRower. It was early evening when we arrived at the home of...
2003-03-31 15:57:55 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
For the past several months, the press has been lost in a Bacchanalian orgy, heaping criticism and derision on the current administration while drunk...
2003-03-31 15:53:54 est |
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LOCATION:
Pensacola, FL |
MESSAGE:
One of my favorite towns was Bay St. Louis, Mississippi. We camped at the Waveland State park and dropped in at the yacht club in the morning. The Wav...
2003-03-31 15:50:44 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
A question I am often asked as I row by people standing on the banks is “Do you have a motor for that thing?”
My smiling reply is inva...
2003-03-31 15:45:06 est |
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LOCATION:
Harvey, LA |
MESSAGE:
March 2003
It had been nearly a year since I had last seen Gracie O’Malley. She had been my companion when I first started on my ventu...
2003-03-31 15:42:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Ellender, LA |
MESSAGE:
March, 2003
The Intracoastal Park is just a short distance across the Louisiana state line from Texas. It is the place where...
2003-03-25 12:31:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Galveston, TX |
MESSAGE:
February, 2003
By late February, I was chomping at the bit. The perimeters of Port Aransas seemed to be shrinking by the day...
2003-03-25 12:12:59 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
...
2003-02-07 15:11:45 est |
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LOCATION:
Paradise |
MESSAGE:
In Gainesville, I boarded one of those great contributors to the sum of human pain and misery known as a Greyhound Bus. It took me two days to backtr...
2002-10-03 12:08:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Cedar Key, Fl |
MESSAGE:
From Suwanee, I travelled upriver. It was raining as I left, with a pronounced threat of thunderstorms. At the point where the river split into two b...
2002-10-03 11:12:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Suwanee Fl. |
MESSAGE:
Suwanee, Fl
With no tent, I was required to draw upon my resourcefulness to build a shelter. I stretched a line between two posts. I t...
2002-10-03 08:50:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Horseshoe Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I left my tent that morning to find that the air boaters had blown my canoe up unto the rocks. My flagstaff was bent and the flag was lying in the mu...
2002-09-30 08:41:55 est |
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LOCATION:
Cow Bayou Fl. |
MESSAGE:
It was a long jump from Steinhatchee to Horseshoe Beach. I couldn’t find any likely camping spots on the chart. I set off hoping for the best but pep...
2002-09-30 08:33:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Cow Bayou, Fl. |
MESSAGE:
Cow Bayou, FL
It was a long jump from Steinhatchee to Horseshoe Beach. I couldn’t find any likely camping spots on the chart. I set of...
2002-09-30 08:30:23 est |
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LOCATION:
Steinhatchee Fl. |
MESSAGE:
The afternoon thunderstorms continued to arrive in the mornings and last all day. I made my way to Steinhatchee, Fl. There was another RV par...
2002-09-30 08:28:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Keaton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I contacted the builder of my rowing machine, Ron Rantilla, and explained my problem. He shipped me replacement parts as well as a set of the new han...
2002-09-07 21:10:06 est |
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LOCATION:
Keaton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I left Adam’s Beach to head for Keaton Beach. The morning sunlight refracted into a complete rainbow that stretched its legs across the western sky. ...
2002-09-05 13:18:17 est |
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LOCATION:
Adams Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
Rock Island is a small piece of land with a copse of scrub oak and palms covering one end. It provided a sheltered campsite. I needed it.
2002-09-04 16:57:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Rock Island FL. |
MESSAGE:
Heading down the Econfina River, I quickly discovered my repair didn’t hold. Another solution would have to be found.
I felt re-energ...
2002-09-04 15:30:09 est |
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LOCATION:
Econfina River, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning, I found I was camped illegally. I guess I had experienced one of those very happy days when all the officials had chosen not to see...
2002-09-04 15:16:49 est |
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LOCATION:
St George Sound, FL |
MESSAGE:
Underway again, I left Carrabelle on the 4th of July. I had only gone a couple of mile before towering thunderheads persuaded me to make camp....
2002-08-11 18:31:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Aucilla River, FL |
MESSAGE:
Fear is a problem and problems have solutions. Fear is caused by ignorance. The way to conquer it is through knowledge.
If Flo...
2002-08-11 18:25:18 est |
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LOCATION:
St Mark’s Light, FL |
MESSAGE:
Once again, I had a late start and early thunderstorms forced me to seek shelter after only a few miles.
I camped at the mouth...
2002-08-11 18:19:51 est |
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LOCATION:
St. Mark |
MESSAGE:
A long day's rowing took me from Panacea to St Mark. Although the town is only a short distance from Tallahassee, it shows no sign of ...
2002-08-02 18:43:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Panacea, FL |
MESSAGE:
I woke up early and broke camp with little sleep. Someone set off fireworks for about an hour after dark.
My camp was n...
2002-08-02 18:41:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Panacea, FL |
MESSAGE:
I crossed the mouth of Alligator Bay and rowe...
2002-08-02 18:34:07 est |
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LOCATION:
Turkey Point, FL. |
MESSAGE:
Heavy rain delayed my departure in the morning. When I finally got underway, I felt sluggish and clumsy.
I hadn't done any ser...
2002-08-02 18:26:50 est |
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LOCATION:
Carrabelle, FL |
MESSAGE:
I spent my last full day in Carrabelle. First, I brought the website up to date. Then I went to visit Eric at Marine Diesel. I was told, by reliable s...
2002-07-11 22:32:02 est |
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LOCATION:
Carrabelle, FL. |
MESSAGE:
In Carrabelle, there is a brand new library which allowed me virtually unlimited access to a computer. I am able to bring the website up to date.
2002-07-11 22:28:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Carrabelle, FL. |
MESSAGE:
Carrabelle is a small waterfront community. It is not as trendy as Apalachicola and I believe quite a bit less expensive.
The Harbor Master at...
2002-07-11 22:26:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Yent Bayou, FL |
MESSAGE:
I continued eastward down St George’s Sound in near perfect conditions, a light northeast wind and almost dead- calm seas. I think Cathy brought...
2002-07-11 22:24:19 est |
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LOCATION:
East Point Fl. |
MESSAGE:
With my makeshift replacement oar blade, I resumed my journey. I crossed Apalachicola Bay to East Point and rounded into St. George Sound.
I d...
2002-07-11 22:21:30 est |
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LOCATION:
Apalachicola, FL |
MESSAGE:
I drove, with Cathy, back to Panama City, so she could catch her bus.
Returning alone to Apalachicola was the hardest thing I have don...
2002-07-10 09:09:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Apalachicola FL. |
MESSAGE:
Apalachicola is a beautifully restored town with an actual working waterfront.
I still needed to make a replacement oar blade. We went to the A...
2002-07-10 09:06:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Apalachicola River, FL |
MESSAGE:
We traveled the length of Lake Wicomico and entered the Apalachicola River. A large sport fisherman came up on us. He immediately cut his speed and st...
2002-07-10 09:03:56 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Wimico, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning we went into town for breakfast. I bought Cathy a small bouquet to replace the rose that I had given her at the bus station.
Lea...
2002-07-10 09:00:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Lake Wimico, FL |
MESSAGE:
In the morning we went into town for breakfast. I bought Cathy a small bouquet to replace the rose that I had given her at the bus station.
Lea...
2002-07-10 08:59:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Port St. Joe, FL |
MESSAGE:
Since we were ahead of schedule, we made a side trip to Port St. Joe. I was glad we did. A half-mile into the cut, a bald eagle flew out in front of u...
2002-07-08 13:51:10 est |
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LOCATION:
Jackson River, FL |
MESSAGE:
The third day we entered the sheltered water of the ICW canals. We were following the same routine. Cathy rowed first until I thought she had had enou...
2002-07-08 13:47:20 est |
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LOCATION:
East Bay, FL |
MESSAGE:
The next morning, I woke at daybreak and began clearing camp while Cathy slept.
She woke very early and pitched in to help. I let her r...
2002-07-08 13:40:35 est |
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LOCATION:
Panama City, FL |
MESSAGE:
Finally, it was time to go to the bus station and meet Cathy. Despite a grueling 18 hour trip, she wore her patented, brighter-than-sunshine smile. We...
2002-07-05 16:55:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Panama City, FL |
MESSAGE:
I rowed hard to reach Panama City. I knew I had planned a fairly soft schedule for Cathy’s portion and could rest up then.
My campsite was abou...
2002-07-05 16:50:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Destin, FL |
MESSAGE:
I was supposed to pick up a passenger in Panama City, a beautiful, intelligent and vivacious redhead by the name of Kelley.
Unfortunately she h...
2002-07-05 16:47:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Destin, FL |
MESSAGE:
I did an inventory of the gear I had with me. I found a floating cushion and a paddle. My rowing machine was lashed to the boat. I rolled it over and ...
2002-07-05 16:44:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Destin, FL |
MESSAGE:
A south wind was blowing when I left the park. Ahead of me lay 17 miles of Choctawhatchee Bay and no good options.
I could follow the north sho...
2002-07-03 15:36:05 est |
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LOCATION:
Ft Walton Beach, FL |
MESSAGE:
I rowed into the Ft. Walton Beach Yacht Club, where I was turned away by the club manager.
One of the members told me of a beautiful s...
2002-07-03 15:30:33 est |
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LOCATION:
Pensacola, FL |
MESSAGE:
After crossing Perdido Bay, I was in Florida. I fell instantly in love with the water. Pure white sand shone through crystal clear water under a deep ...
2002-06-28 23:30:51 est |
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LOCATION:
Perdido Bay, AL |
MESSAGE:
After a day of uneventful rowing, I was nearing Florida. (The notes for this portion of the trip were lost, so I may have events out of seq...
2002-06-28 23:28:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Mobile, AL |
MESSAGE:
On this day, I would leave Mobile Bay. My chart for the area had melted, so I was reduced to navigating by a large-scale roadmap. It looked as if all ...
2002-06-28 23:25:12 est |
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LOCATION:
ICW AL. |
MESSAGE:
It was fairly calm when I left Fairhope in the predawn light. I had to backtrack the three mi. to the hotel before I could start seeing n...
2002-06-25 15:35:20 est |
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LOCATION:
Fairhope AL. |
MESSAGE:
The wind had picked up for the morning passage. I took advantage of the lee afforded by the south shore of the island. As I cleared the eastern end a...
2002-06-25 11:56:32 est |
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LOCATION:
Mobile Bay |
MESSAGE:
I laid up through a day of beautiful weather. I felt guilty not rowing, but I didn't want to tackle Mobile Bay in less than I00% condition...
2002-06-24 14:29:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Mobile Ala. |
MESSAGE:
Memorial Day the wind was blowing SE. I started back up the bay to find I was only three miles from the Mobile Yacht Club. I pulled into ...
2002-06-21 16:44:59 est |
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LOCATION:
|
MESSAGE:
If any readers have messages that contain information they may feel uncomfortable posting on the website, they may also contact me by e-m...
2002-06-13 16:54:51 est |
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LOCATION:
Mobile Bay, Al |
MESSAGE:
My campsite was at a popular fishing spot. I had little quiet and less privacy. At the first glimpse of light in the eastern sky, I passed under the ...
2002-06-13 16:49:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Southeastern Alabama |
MESSAGE:
I set out to travel the last of the Mississippi Sound the next day. As I rounded one grassy point, the boat was boarded by a large number of voraciou...
2002-06-13 16:24:19 est |
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LOCATION:
Southeastern Al |
MESSAGE:
I was headed for Alabama. My first stop was at a waterfront house to ask for information on local camping.
The owner offered me use of his ...
2002-06-13 16:15:34 est |
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LOCATION:
Ocean Springs MS> |
MESSAGE:
I left Deer Island in a north wind and crossed the channel to Biloxi. By hugging the north shore, I passed through the city marina. A man came runnin...
2002-06-13 16:08:52 est |
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LOCATION:
Biloxi MS. |
MESSAGE:
From the beach at Biloxi, I rowed a few miles to the lee of Deer Island. It is an uninhabited strip of land about two miles long that is a favorite f...
2002-06-09 08:22:08 est |
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LOCATION:
Biloxi MS |
MESSAGE:
There was a south wind blowing when I left Gulfport. I was taking seas on the beam for a wet ride. As more water collected in the bottom, the boat be...
2002-06-08 22:09:28 est |
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LOCATION:
Ocean Springs MS. |
MESSAGE:
Reading back through my postings, I realized I have been trying very hard not to leave out anyone who has assisted me during my trip and I completely...
2002-05-20 17:29:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Gulfport MS. |
MESSAGE:
On Tuesday, My daughter drove me to the bus terminal. It was time to resume my journey.
At the bus station my opinion of Greyhound bounded u...
2002-05-16 15:15:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Syracuse NY |
MESSAGE:
I reluctantly climbed into another one of those torture chambers known as inter-city buses ...
2002-05-14 14:38:43 est |
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LOCATION:
Syracuse NY |
MESSAGE:
I reluctantly climbed into another one of those torture chambers known as inter-city buses ...
2002-05-14 14:38:11 est |
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LOCATION:
Philadelphia PA. |
MESSAGE:
I had intended to fly to Syracuse for my daughter’s graduation. However, finances or to be more accurate, the lack thereof, dictated I travel b...
2002-05-10 10:02:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Gulfport MS |
MESSAGE:
I returned Wally’s where I tied up the canoe. I considered continuing on to Biloxi, but I had to purchase signal flares before the Coast Guard would ...
2002-05-05 09:09:15 est |
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LOCATION:
Gulfport MS |
MESSAGE:
The next port-of-call was Gulfport. That morning the calm held almost until I reached the harbor. My luck didn’t. First, I dropped in at Bob’s Bait a...
2002-05-05 08:52:59 est |
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LOCATION:
Long Beach MS. |
MESSAGE:
I left Pass Christian in a near calm. After rowing about two miles, I saw dorsal fins on the surface. At first I thought they were dolphins but after...
2002-05-04 09:18:26 est |
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LOCATION:
Pass Christian, MS |
MESSAGE:
It had been my plan to fly out of Mobile for my daughter’s graduation. After having a good look at the Mississippi...
2002-05-03 18:31:01 est |
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LOCATION:
Pass Christian MS. |
MESSAGE:
Among the Cajuns of Southern Louisiana, I found a kind of casual courtliness. It was not the good man...
2002-05-03 13:45:06 est |
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LOCATION:
Bay St. Louis MS. |
MESSAGE:
Diddly-Bopping down the streets of Bay St. Louis, I feel the desire to set anchor. The idea of lounging in a hammock on a cool porch while sipping a ...
2002-04-30 13:12:44 est |
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LOCATION:
Bay St.. Louis MS. |
MESSAGE:
The following morning, I went to the Library only to find their computers were down. Then I did what any woman would do and I went shopping.
I...
2002-04-27 16:28:22 est |
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LOCATION:
Bay St Louis MS. |
MESSAGE:
Left Ainsley early and rowed down the pipeline to Lake Bourgne. The wind and sea had picked up and I started taking a beating. After rounding a point...
2002-04-27 15:53:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Ainsley MS. |
MESSAGE:
Rowed through the bayous to Ainsley Ms. I saw otters and about a dozen alligators swimming. I got to within about ten feet of a small one...
2002-04-27 15:09:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Bikini Beach On the Pearl River MS.er |
MESSAGE:
My left shoulder has been giving me a great deal of pain, I must have pulled a muscle. Sunday morning, Paul told me about a sand beach on...
2002-04-27 14:58:18 est |
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LOCATION:
St Catherine LA. |
MESSAGE:
I camped that night at the west end of the Industrial Canal Lock. A few local came by to talk. In the morning, I locked through. On the East side I w...
2002-04-27 14:31:58 est |
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LOCATION:
New Orleans LA> |
MESSAGE:
Since leaving Morgan City, I had been fighting a nagging sore throat. I thought it was caused by dryness and then talking too much to exp...
2002-04-27 14:07:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Harvey LA. |
MESSAGE:
The next morning, I rowed to American Tugs. As I pulled in, the owner, the Rev. Autry DuFrene, told me where the best place to tie the boa...
2002-04-27 13:38:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Harvey LA. |
MESSAGE:
I left Lafitte after Breakfast and had a slow pull to Harvey Canal. Retif Fuel and Oil, on the chart, it seemed to be a full service marin...
2002-04-27 12:09:43 est |
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LOCATION:
LaFitte LA. |
MESSAGE:
I am getting close to New Orleans. The canal is suddenly inundated with sight-seeing boats laden with camera-toting tourists.
&...
2002-04-26 13:59:05 est |
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LOCATION:
LaRose LA. |
MESSAGE:
I pulled into a field next to a bridge. There, I found out what a fire ants' nest looks like. I also found out why they call t...
2002-04-26 13:33:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Mi 58 ICW |
MESSAGE:
Gracie is still not herself. She seems unable to get comforable. Her demeanor is a lot more subdued.
I am rethin...
2002-04-26 13:00:21 est |
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LOCATION:
Houma LA. |
MESSAGE:
I Have re-thought this first year. Since leaving Port Aransas, I have concerned myself with how many miles I was making. I am often over-...
2002-04-25 18:29:42 est |
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LOCATION:
Houma LA. |
MESSAGE:
Arriving in Houma, I stopped to ask some men working on a jack-up barge for advice on camping in town. I was invited aboard to take a show...
2002-04-25 18:15:32 est |
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LOCATION:
Mi 68 ICW |
MESSAGE:
I had hoped to reach Houma but the wind and ever increasing cloud cover killed that optimism.
Pulled up into a cypress...
2002-04-25 18:05:57 est |
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LOCATION:
MI 75 ICW |
MESSAGE:
The wind kept building on my nose. It has been getting increasingly difficult to find decent camping spots.
Landed on what I thought to be a...
2002-04-25 17:46:22 est |
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LOCATION:
Morgan City, La. |
MESSAGE:
I checked into the Morgan City Hotel, an expensive flophouse. I've slept in swamps that were cleaner. A dead roach was resting...
2002-04-25 17:34:53 est |
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LOCATION:
Morgan City LA. |
MESSAGE:
I pulled in under the bridge at Forked River where I met some local young people and talked for a while. They left to get a camera. When they returne...
2002-04-22 09:39:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Mile Marker 185 ICW |
MESSAGE:
At a fuel dock called Talen’s Landing, I was able to take a hot shower. That night I made camp on a levee. There were signs o f cattle being gr...
2002-04-21 22:31:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Mile Marker 200 ICW |
MESSAGE:
Another cold front caused me to spend the next day holed up under the bridge. The next day, I rowed twenty miles.
As I pulled up to the bank t...
2002-04-21 22:20:07 est |
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LOCATION:
Gibbstown LA. |
MESSAGE:
I left Ellender and rowed into a fierce headwind. After several hours and going only five miles, I decided to call it a day. I pulled into Black Bayo...
2002-04-21 22:05:39 est |
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LOCATION:
Ellender LA. |
MESSAGE:
Having survived my close encounter with a tug and tow, I spotted a boat ramp. After grounding the canoe, I climbed a short rise to where a number of R...
2002-04-19 20:07:37 est |
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LOCATION:
Ellender LA. |
MESSAGE:
Leaving Orange TX, I crossed the Sabine River into Louisiana. I rowed all day, the oars seemed light and the canoe swift. Suddenly, it was getting da...
2002-04-05 13:50:49 est |
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LOCATION:
Port Orange TX. |
MESSAGE:
The Sabine Yacht Basin lies along a canal on the West side of Orange TX. Mike Jordan, a native of Buffalo is the ...
2002-04-05 13:36:51 est |
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LOCATION:
Port Arthur TX |
MESSAGE:
The boat was heavy and sluggish. Water kept draining from my gear bags into the bottom of the boat. I arrived at Port Arthur mid-afternoon looking fo...
2002-03-21 16:38:17 est |
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LOCATION:
The Twilight Zone |
MESSAGE:
The land has grown increasingly swampy. I saw my first alligator just past High Island. It was big, maybe 10 to 12 feet.
I find the reality of a...
2002-03-20 15:14:16 est |
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LOCATION:
Mi 316 ICW |
MESSAGE:
My next campsite was just past Rollover Bay. I didn’t have enough level space to pitch my tent. I thought of just sleeping under the ...
2002-03-20 14:49:19 est |
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LOCATION:
Mi 337 ICW |
MESSAGE:
Strong west winds made departing impossible the next morning. Lesson learned, cross any open water the night before if you can. Then you won’t ...
2002-03-20 14:27:01 est |
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LOCATION:
Port Bolivar TX. |
MESSAGE:
Downtown Galveston reminds me of a miniature version of the French Quarter, or at least what I think the French Quarter is like, never ha...
2002-03-20 13:59:53 est |
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LOCATION:
Galveston TX |
MESSAGE:
I spent four days in Galveston, The first morning, I walked back into town to save cab fare. Galveston has a beautiful Public Library, apparently the...
2002-03-19 16:50:58 est |
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LOCATION:
Galveston TX |
MESSAGE:
I woke the following morning having fallen prey to neither ravenous nor romantic reptiles. Today, I would reach Galveston. At the foot of the causewa...
2002-03-19 16:06:11 est |
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LOCATION:
Galveston Tx |
MESSAGE:
Dear Friends
After leaving the beach, I still had a bit of an east wind. I rowed out about a half mile and then turned north. The wind on my ...
2002-03-08 18:34:55 est |
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LOCATION:
Galveston TX. |
MESSAGE:
The next day, I broke camp to light winds and intermittent sunshine. The night before temperatures dropped so low all my water froze. I crossed the n...
2002-03-08 18:04:31 est |
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LOCATION:
Mile 378 ICW |
MESSAGE:
Sunshine and moderate winds the next morning. Soon after I climbed into the boat, temperatures began to drop and the wind came around from the west. ...
2002-03-08 17:32:41 est |
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LOCATION:
Mile 382 ICW |
MESSAGE:
I only went about four mi. that afternoon. I planned an early start the next morning to take advantage of the predicted SE wind.
At...
2002-03-08 17:31:14 est |
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LOCATION:
Freeport TX. |
MESSAGE:
I docked at the Matagorda Harbor Marina, where Harold Martin, harbor master greeted me. He offered me free dockage as well as use of the...
2002-03-07 17:40:40 est |
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LOCATION:
Matagorda TX. |
MESSAGE:
In Freeport, I pulled into the first marina. I slipped into a yacht basin filled with large sport fishermen. Condos lined the shoreline; I did not ha...
2002-03-07 17:39:23 est |
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LOCATION:
Matagorda, TX |
MESSAGE:
My first campsite back on the ICW was a perch on the face of a levee. While there, I had a chance to witness the courting rituals of fiddler crabs. Th...
2002-03-07 14:30:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Palacious Tx. |
MESSAGE:
For anyone who might have come aboard late, and doesn't know the whys and wherefores of this trip, I will bring them up to date.
&...
2002-02-20 15:07:38 est |
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LOCATION:
Palacious TX. |
MESSAGE:
Still afloat. After fleaving the Davis's, Turned west into Matagorda Bay. Without a sail, the chances of me making a straght shot across the bay in on...
2002-02-20 14:30:29 est |
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LOCATION:
Port O'Conner |
MESSAGE:
The world is very good. Spent Four days at the home of Jeffrey Cadwallader. He could not of done more for me. William Least Heat Moon, in his book Blu...
2002-02-15 00:31:55 est |
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LOCATION:
Unknown |
MESSAGE:
Progress has not been spectacular. Left Feb 2, as planned, rowing into a hard Norther. Only went a couple of miles before stopping to correct a fe...
2002-02-11 00:00:00 est |
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LOCATION:
Tampa, FL |
MESSAGE:
The Tampa-St. Petersburg area is the largest metropolitan center I have arrived at so far. Tampa and St. Petersburg lie across Tampa B...
0000-00-00 00:00:00 est |
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